Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 49

Thread: Koza's 318iS

  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    141

    Thumbs up

    excellent work!!

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    135

    Default

    It's been a while and I realized how little I have done...

    anyway that's the way I've done rear jacking points



    bit of seam welding - just did the rear shock towers




    after that I painted all the repaired bits with bilt hamber epoxy primer, I think It's great stuff for underbody, seems very strong and waterproof





  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    135

    Default

    next I sealed all the uncovered seams and welds with the seam sealer




  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Now... I'm not sure what's the next step?

    I have dinitrol products: 447 stone chip, 4941 underbody wax and ML cavity wax

    I plan to buy some 3125 cavity wax and spray the underbody with it and then cover it with the 4941 underbody wax - but do I paint the seamsealer first?

    I'm gonna put the stonechip only around inner wheel arches, so do i just spray it on as I have them now? will I put some wax first? Or do you recommend putting the stonechip on all the underbody? do I have to paint the stonechip or can I leave it unprotected?

    I know I have to inject the cavity wax in all the box sections, I already have the ML wax, but will I use the 3125 wax in cavities as well?

    maybe their silly questions but if anyone knows the answers please help

    thanks

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Cavan
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    I'm not familiar with all them products but I would say nothing will stick to the was so underseal/stonechip/seamsealer first

  6. #21
    breihill01's Avatar
    breihill01 is offline Premium Member (Site Supporter)
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    fermanagh and belfast
    Posts
    1,233

    Default

    Stone chip then cavity then hard wax top. Think it's recommended somewhere on the dintronol site.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    135

    Default

    I've read the faq on the dinitrol website and they recommend the stone chip only on wheel arches on vehicles that go off road, otherwise just use the 3125 wax and then 4941 underbody on top and that's the way I'll do it I think. they don't recommend using both stonechip and the underbody stuff together. I'll test the stuff first on some old panel.

    I got the brake line nuts yesterday Jozi thanks

  8. #23
    ac_s's Avatar
    ac_s is offline Premium Member (Site Supporter)
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    North Cork
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by koza View Post
    only on wheel arches on vehicles that go off road
    One Should Never Rule It Out!


    E46 320d Saloon
    E46 320i Saloon - E30 316i Touring - E36 318iS Saloon - E36 318iS - E30 325i Sport

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Update time...

    I've done a lot of work over last few weeks

    I'm very happy with the dinitrol stuff I think it's a good quality products, pitty their hard to get in Ireland, as I found out the hard way - after I run out of the seam sealer, which is NLA from clean car anymore, so I got a can of T-euro sealer - horrible stuff, you can tell straight away after opening the can, and the worst bit is that it reacted with the dinitrol sealer as I put some extra on the parts where I ran out... major headache! so be careful not to mix products of different makes. I used the Tiger seal after and it seems fine...

    Anyway the stonechip went on the wheel arches and sills



    then the cavity wax in the box sections and the main seams underneath





    next I sprayed the underbody with the 4941 underbody wax





    one thing I don't like about the underbody wax is that it stays a bit sticky, unlike the stonechip which stays slightly flexible but not sticky at all, but I'd say the wax is probably better anticorrosion protection, so I just masked off the areas where I didn't want the sticky stuff and I'm happy with the result

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    135

    Default

    I've restored and painted my brakes as well, I used the por-15 caliper painting kit which I found very good, I didn't even use half of the paints and cleaners included





    my caliper pistons needed replacing



    I got them pistons new on ebay from uk together with all the new seals as repair kits, so my brakes are as new now, even the paint finish is great considering it's not spray painted, there are foam brushes included in the kit which leave a nice finish

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Rebuilding the rear axle - this was my favourite job so far, it felt like building lego blocks, and the result - well maybe there's something wrong with me but looking at shiny new parts is like a porn to me

    I went for the black diamond stainless brake hoses and stainless brake pipe nuts (thanks Jozi) I shouldve gone for the kunifer pipes but their not available locally to me







    I made the axle geometry adjustable and fitted poliurethane bushes, I read on here and other forums that they're not great for road use but that was after I purchased full set of them, at least they're the softer ones so will see I can always change them again...


  12. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    135

    Default

    I couldn't find the proper tank vent pipes cover which was rotten, so I decided to fix it with isopon as it's only a cover, after painting it with the epoxy primer it looked good, will see how long it'll last



    axle ready to go in...





    ...and going in with the help of 3 jacks...



    the tank and filler neck are all fitted too together with all the vent pipes, I found the pre-facelift vent pipe that ends below the tank so I can dump the whole long pipe that goes to the engine bay's carbon canister

    at the moment rear end is almost complete underneath and looks like this









    I'll put wheels on next week after a year standing on the axle stands...
    I didn't think it's gonna take that long but what can you do, I'll give her a wash and start stripping the front... hopefully the front won't take that long

  13. #28
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Galway city
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Great work, well done

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Offalyman in Laois
    Posts
    8,948

    Default

    That's a great job done on that
    1990 E30 316i M42B18 Matte Black 2 Door
    1995 E34 518i Techno Violet Metallic Saloon

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Two years, no update...

    Not that I haven't done anything, in fact I've done a lot.
    In the beginning I was gonna do just a quick runover and make the car roadworthy. The car didn't look that bad but after I started digging I was finding more and more rust, so decided to do the rear end of the body and fix the mechanical issues, which took me over one year thought I'd have her on the road long before that, but I don't want to do things by halves, and not being experienced in welding and bodywork, having fulltime job and family it's hard to spend time on this project, but I didn't give up. After the work on the rear was completed I started thinking, put her back together and drive with rotten wings? rust issues in the engine bay? no, I didn't like the idea, so

    I made a decision: FULL RESTORATION (sort of...)

    last shot with engine still in



    engine out and start stripin stripin



    I washed the front of the car with degreaser and salt remover


Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •