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Thread: My XR5 Turbo / ST225 Focus

  1. #1
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    Default My XR5 Turbo / ST225 Focus

    So, here’s a bit of a small piece on my XR5 Turbo / ST225.

    I had to sell the 130i as with a child seat in the back the missus had her seat all the way forward which meant her knees were rubbing off the dashboard and the young lads pram couldn't even fit in the boot. Not much room! Luckily, a guy I know made me an offer I couldn't refuse.

    I have the Focus about 4 months and was pretty determined to keep it standard. That worked out well. Initially I was looking for one around 4 years ago and pretty much had my heart set on a performance blue one with leather, which is a pretty rare combo. Went to look at one, had 10k on the clock but turned out to be crashed. Looked at another one a few months back which looked like the holy grail – RS clutch, exhaust, intercooler, intake, Rs injectors, mapped, K06 turbo, coilovers etc. being sold by a young guy but a quick look under the oil cap confirmed it had a cracked liner / blown headgasket. So I kinda stopped looking for one.
    Anyway, from a forum post I had posted looking for one, someone contacted me saying their work colleague was moving back to the UK and that she had a low kilometer performance blue model with leather, new brakes all around and a full service history. Went to look at it, was happy with it and bought it. Was happy with it for a few weeks but the front end had a slight knock over bumps so I suspected drop links etc. Brought it to a Ford specialist for a full check and the front shocks were a bit weak and the rear drop links for the rear sway bar had seen better days too. We also did a gearbox oil change (typical of manufacturers these days they say it’s sealed for life which is rubbish), with Mainlube mucho mucho dollero oil, engine oil change with Castrol Edge 0-40W, cleaned the MAP and MAF sensors and did a full road test.
    They’re not a bad car as standard, 222 bhp and 232 ft/lbs / 320 Nm (at 1600rpm), means they always feel nice and torquey, with a good 5 pot growl as well as exhaust pops and bangs. They can be pretty bad on fuel especially around town but I’ve actually squeezed 40mpg / 7L/100 k’s out of mine on a long trip which is pretty good. In 2500 k’s since I’ve had it I’ve averaged around 24.4 mpg / 11.6 L/100k’s which isn’t too bad really considering most of my driving is in the city.

    A few photos:


















    At this point it was still winter so the notoriously puny intercooler was still adequate but with the Queensland summer on the way it’s pretty much the first mod that most people do is change the intercooler for a better one. Even in the UK / Europe the standard intercooler becomes pretty inefficient in their summer so I ordered an Airtec Intercooler from Burtons in the UK. The standard LV has an 11 row intercooler (earlier LS models came with an even smaller 7 row cooler I believe) so the Airtec was both much longer, wider and taller. The internet had assured me that fitting would take about 2 hours, and maybe it would if you had hands like a Japanese schoolgirl, but it took me the best part of 6 hours by myself lying on the ground. To be fair most people who do it in 2 hours have a lift / help and also leave off the intercooler air diverters to the side of the intercooler but I’ve read a lot of people say that it pushes a lot of extra air towards the undertray and has resulted in quite a lot of people losing them on the motorway along with the potential of extra grit and stones being directed towards the auxiliary belts. As the intercooler is much bigger, the air deflectors need to be trimmed down to size. Of course no one in the history of doing this job seems to have provided any pictures on how much / where / angles to cut them at so it’s literally trial and error by lying under the car on your back with dirt falling into your eyes and cursing a lot as you try and wedge the deflectors past everything to see how much extra and where you need to trim off. Anyway, 2 hours of trial and error later I had them fitted and I’m glad I did as it kept a nice stealth look I was looking for.

    New intercooler - Airtec Gen 3, from Burton Power in the UK


    Old intercooler - Ford admitting - ok, we fucked up - this intercooler is complete and utter shite.



    Intercooler old and new



    Finished intercooler the way I wanted it, nice and stealthy without anything sticking out too much for the cops to spot.



    While I had the front panel off I also changed the air filter as it needed a change. When I went looking for service parts the best places were Mick’s Garage or FCP (by searching for Volvo parts) in the USA. FCP are great, with fantastic prices (including Bmw stuff) but as I needed some new bumpstops I went with Mick’s Garage as they had them and their prices were good too. Pretty sad that I can order parts from Ireland, get them delivered to Australia for way less than I could buy them here for.

    They had good prices on Mann filters which are always great quality and cheap.
    Air filter old


    Air filter new


    Air filter slot



    So with the suspension having a few knocks (car had 61,000k’s) I decided to change a few things in the suspension. I ordered a Bilstein B12 kit from Germany which came with 4 x B8 shortened dampers and a set of 20mm Eibach lowering springs. I ordered from the same place that I got my B12 kit for the 130i and they were 549 euro – really cheap. Shipping was another 129 euro but was still waaaay cheaper that what I could buy locally for. I also bought new top mounts and bearings for the front. Hanz from Germany was happy to ensure a fair price on the invoice to ensure my missus didn't see the price and had nothing to do with avoiding import duty. I decided then that I still need to take the knocks out so I just decided to start from scratch with a fresh suspension change, so I ended up buying;
    Bilstein B12 kit
    New top mounts and top bearings
    Hardrace front drop links
    Hardrace rear drop links
    Hardrace front arms (with new bushes)
    Hardrace front roll correction kit (with extended ball joints)
    Hardrace tie rod ends
    Hardrace rear adjustable toe arms
    Hardrace rear adjustable camber arms
    Whiteline rear adjustable sway bar
    Febi-bilstein rear bump stops










    For all the suspension work I brought it to a local specialist who specialises in all things Ford.


    Eibachs



    There also not much point in changing the shocks without changing the top mounts so I changed them as well to Sachs that I got from Germany.




    Bilsteins



    When you lower the focus you can have some issues with the roll centre being off and can, potentially put some extra stress on the driveshafts so the roll correction kit helps this. It’s also susceptible to changes in camber at the back when lowering so the adjustable camber arms helps sort this out. Interesting as well is that while the Bilstein front shocks come with internal bump stops, you need to sort your own bump stops for the rear and for some odd reason Ford charge mucho mucho dollero for the 2 rear bump stops – around 50 UK pounds. After some internet research and detective work I found that Febi-Bilstein sold them for around 16 pounds for the 2 which was much better.


    Under car finished suspension







    When the shocks were worn on the front it must also have been out of alignment as the tyres were wearing unevenly so I needed to change them.

    They had Pirelli Cinturato P1 all round, which aren’t bad but I wanted to start with a fresh set as the dates on the tyres indicated that that they were 3 years old and looking a tad bit cracked in places too. I was about to buy four of the Bridgestone Potenza RE003’s but I got a good price match on 4 x Goodyear Eagle F1’s Asymetricc 3 at the same price. And they seem to get better reviews:
    http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Br...alin-RE003.htm
    http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Go...ymmetric-3.htm


    Interestingly, the XR5 comes with 225/40/18 tyres but as many Aussie cars come with 235/40/18 tyres, it’s a very common size tyre and is much cheaper than the 225/40/18. Many owners go for the 235 size and I actually saved around $40 / 25 euro a corner by going to that size. Anyway, I very happy with them, great grip etc.


    A few months back as well Dreamscience tuning in the UK had a sale on for Ford Fest and were doing some good deals for their handheld tuners. The tuning maps for the XR5 are out with about 10 years now and all pretty reliable and well used. I bought an imap device which has around 7 maps on it for various states of engine tuning depending on what you have done engine wise (exhaust / intake / injectors etc.) It also acts as a good fault code reader which is always handy. As my engine is stock apart from the intercooler I loaded the Performance + map which brings power to around 260 bhp and around 285 ft/lbs / 385 Nm. Feels ok with more pops and bangs from the exhaust also but still didn't feel hugely different to stock.


    A few weeks ago I decided to load up another map to try - DSCI. It's got a bit of a rep as a clutch killer, but again, it's all about the way you drive the car - boot it in 6th at 1600rpm and it'll strain the clutch pretty bad.
    Anyway, left work at 5.15pm with the new map loaded, and holy fuuuuuck, what a difference. Boosted so quickly, massive torque surge and much more powerful. Part of my trip is an industrial type road with not much traffic so sure enough I give it a bootfull on a nice sweeping bend. Turn another corner and notice an under cover Ute hammering up behind me with the blues and twos. 25 kph over the limit, 4 penalty points and $406 fine. At 5.25 - 10 mins after loading the new map and giving it a squirt only 3 times. Awesome. Didn't even notice them parked up. Anyway, that's the luck of the draw, what can you do!


    One of the jobs I wasn’t looking forward to was changing the cabin filter which is in under the dash and if the internet is to be believed - more difficult to reach than the fiery depths of Mordor. To be honest it wasn’t too bad. Most people say you have to remove the glovebox but you don’t. Push the passenger seat all the way back, undo the felt cover, unplug everything from the fusebox, remove it and remove 3 screws on the side of the filter housing. The top one is a bit of a prick to get to, which involves with leaning on your side / hip to get to and leaves with a nice colourful bruise down your side the next day.

    Fuse box under dash


    As another Ford facepalm, the 12v supply in the car is constantly live, which is a terrible idea if you have anything plugged in as it will drain the battery even if the car is turned off. I have a circuit running to the fuse box to only connect power when the ignition is switched on - good for dash cams etc.







    As you can see, my cabin filter was probably never changed and was very clogged looking.



    New filter




    Here’s a side by side of the new and old. The new one looks black in parts as it’s an activated charcoal filter – it helps filter odours from the outside air.




    Everything back together, all plugs connected again.



    I also changed the interior heater control knobs to knurled aluminium as it takes away from the typical ford plastic feel of the dash.
    Generic XR5 dash knobs:


    My dash with upgraded knobs:




    Anyway, thanks for staying awake, next update will be about a good detail.
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  2. #2
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    Good write up. Have to say that changing the cabin filter is a sign of fussy ownership. The weather looks great there. Good luck with the car.

  3. #3
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    Default Ford, tut tut

    Nice car Fergus, I told u when u wer younger 2 stay away from them oul fords, but she'd look sweet parked up next 2 my cossie😄 keep up the good work, ur next job is the clutch so. Chat soon👍

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    You'd think I'd be keeping away from the Fords with all the heartaches I had with them years ago, but there's just something about them I guess, ha ha.
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  5. #5
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    Love it
    That weather is an even bigger tease with the rain rolling down the window here!


    E46 320d Saloon
    E46 320i Saloon - E30 316i Touring - E36 318iS Saloon - E36 318iS - E30 325i Sport

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    Nice work... it must be fairly planted with that suspension set up.. looks tidy


    Quote Originally Posted by the drifter View Post
    S50 the Bitch

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    Quote Originally Posted by Feens View Post
    Nice work... it must be fairly planted with that suspension set up.. looks tidy
    Ya Brian, handles pretty good. Can't complain.
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    So a slight thread update for the XR5. Haven't really done much to the car apart from giving it a good detail this weekend and fixing my washer jets. Went to clean the windscreen but no water came out. Put water in but still no water coming out. Pump was still making sound so it must have been a blockage somewhere. Decided to pull everything apart to see what the issue was.
    Wheel liner off. Held on by 7 x T30 all around and 3 x T25 Torx at the front.


    The brake discs are annoying me too. Previous owner had all 4 changed just before I got the car and the things are rusted to fuck on the surface. I'll have to sand them down and give them a lick of paint another day.



    After 2 bolts and a quick slide forward the water reservoir slides down.

    I'd say the reservoir still had the original water from the factory given it looks like it holds about 83493874938 litres of water!



    I guess after years of having water in the tank, it eventually slimes up and clogs the filter.
    The pump is attached to the tank. It slides out from a rubber filter and as you can see the filter was pretty blocked.



    Gave it a clean, put it back in and job done.

    The next job (or jobs) was a good detail.

    Hereís the rim before I started Ė itís pretty clean as I normally clean inside the spokes etc. with some wheel woollies which are great as itís normally a pain to try and clean in around under the brake calipers etc. These slide in under the calipers to clean the barrel of the rims pretty easy.





    Sprayed the rims with Sonax extreme wheel cleaner and brushed in. It gets off all the caked on brake dust etc.



    There were also some tar spots on there so I got these off with some Auto Glym tar remover.


    There were some old wheel-weight sticky bits on from the previous wheel balance so I took these off with an old credit card.

    I also gave the tyre sidewalls a good scrub with an all-purpose cleaner. The crap that came off them was insane but they came up pretty good.



    Gave the wheels another rinse and dried them. Then to seal them I gave them a good coat of high temp paste wax Ė FPK1000.



    After sealant:



    Finally I coated the tyres with Gyeon Tire Q2 Ė which I brushed on. Depending on the finish you want, you can either leave it like that for a shiny finish or wipe the excess off with a cloth to give a matt, new tyre look.








    Wheels back on the car, torqued to 110 Nm. Job done.



    As for the body, for the initial wash Iíve been using Optimum No Rinse more and more. Itís a weird product that does away with the traditional 2 bucket wash method and allows you to wash the car with just a few litres of water as itís a really powerful lubricant which helps prevent any scratching as you wash. 15mls of this in a few litres of water is all you need to wash a car. I just spray each panel with quick detailer strength of the solution and then use some really good quality microfiber towels to wash and dry the car. Itís good stuff for a lightly dirty car but fells very odd the first time that you use it as you become used to washing car with loads of suds and bubbles. This doesnít have any of that as it uses itís lubrication to protect the car as you wash. It's also a good water softener so it help reduce water spots when it dries on the paint but I use distilled water for all my washing as I have access to it at work so no water spotting at all. The product also good as a quick detailer or a clay lube.




    Anyway, for the decontamination stage I sprayed the whole car in Iron-X. This just dissolves a lot of the environmental fallout that washing alone doesnít get out Ė brake dust, industrial fallout, etc. Left it dwell for 5 mins (you can see the contaminants turning purple) then powerwashed off. I must not have taken a picture of this for some reason but here's a random internet pic to bore you:


    Then it was onto claying the whole car. Iíve been using a good clay mitt the past few times Iíve clayed. Itís a lot quicker than traditional clay and leaves less marring. I used the Optimum No Rinse diluted to clay bar dilution. I also followed up with some Bilt Hamber clay after to see if there was much left but the clay mitt did a pretty good job.



    Gave the car another quick wash and it was time for the paint correction. Taped up the whole car to stop polish getting on the rubbers / protect the polishing pad and I was ready to go.



    Iím a pretty big fan of Scholl S20 polish. Itís a good 1 stage polish that can be used for good cutting and then refined down for a good final polish at the end. I used this with a Scholl purple spider pad along with a DAS6 pro random orbital polisher.






    The car was previously owned all its life by one owner and being 8 years old it certainly needed a polish. There were also a few deep looking scratches here and there caused by what look like shitty washing technique that caused some grit to be pulled along the paint with a dirty sponge. I wasnít confident that Iíd get these out without wet sanding but I was amazed that I got them out with some easy work. The whole polish and pad combo worked really well and gave a great result with only around 4 passes on each panel. Some reflection shots Ė only after polishing, not after wax etc.





    Roof of the car:



    When I was finished the polishing, I wiped the whole car down with some good Korean microfiber towels which are really soft and great for panel wiping.
    After the polishing stage it was time to prep the paint to accept the sealant for the paint. As many polishes have lubricant oils in them, even when the polish is wiped off there is some oil still left on the paint. In order for the sealant / wax to adhere / bond to the paintwork you need to remove this. You can use a (diluted) isopropanol alcohol mix but I had a really good pre-wax cleanser (Mitchell & King Ė Pure) as well so I used that. Itís rubbed on over the paint work and wiped off with the microfibers. You can see it emulsifying the oils on the panels which looks kinda weird.




    After this it was the sealant stage so I use Menzerna Powerlock. It goes on pretty easy with a sponge and is easy to wipe off.





    Bonnet reflection taken with a crappy iPhone 5.



    I also gave the windows a clean inside and out. Nothing fancy just 50:50 water and vinegar.


    I then gave it another coat the next day so I was finally finished. Went for a drive to my usual photo spot (same spot as the photos earlier in the thread) to take some pics.










    That's it for now. Cheers for reading.
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    Lookin well and great work so far, just picked myself up a pretty standard xr5 mondeo few months back and although a bit heavier than the focus I have to say still a fun daily, gettin roughly 650kms to the tank of fuel, only change has been a cold air intake and I reckon it defo opened up the car a bit more low down, jwr stage 2 tune will be the direction I go when get it of time to sort a de-cat and intercooler


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    Quote Originally Posted by k.mullen View Post
    Lookin well and great work so far, just picked myself up a pretty standard xr5 mondeo few months back and although a bit heavier than the focus I have to say still a fun daily, gettin roughly 650kms to the tank of fuel, only change has been a cold air intake and I reckon it defo opened up the car a bit more low down, jwr stage 2 tune will be the direction I go when get it of time to sort a de-cat and intercooler


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yea, the XR5 Mondeos are very under-rated. They were never really advertised all that much by Ford here apparently and come with alot more equipment and extras than the Focus too.
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    And since bought mine I found out it's 1 of 25 between mondeo and focus to come into oz in this colour, only found that out as garage doing timing belt for me broke the cover on side skirt so that was some input from someone else to my wanted ad, jamie there in oem where you got your work done is a gentleman and wouldn't pass him for anything with them either


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    Ya, Jamie is a legend and a really nice guy.People from all over Australia send him their Fords to be done which goes to show how good he is.
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    Nice work Gussy, looks the part

    Speaking of Australia, I was only watching 'dash cam owners australia' there on YouTube, frightening yet comedy gold what happens on your roads

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    Quote Originally Posted by bucks View Post
    Nice work Gussy, looks the part

    Speaking of Australia, I was only watching 'dash cam owners australia' there on YouTube, frightening yet comedy gold what happens on your roads
    That's a comedy special here Bucks, the standard of driving is shocking and the reactions in the videos are completely appropriate!
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